In the Hometown of Chris Columbus

If you’re a geographically-challenged American like me, you’ve probably only heard of Genova (or Genoa) as the birthplace of Christopher Columbus. Before I arrived, I knew nothing about it and I was only there as a stopping point between Nice and Verona. However, I found it to be a city with an atmosphere like no other; without the touristy crowds of other Italian cities. It ended up being one of my favorite Italian destinations.

I arrived early-afternoon in Genova and decided to walk down to the Old Port. As soon as I plunged into the labyrinth of narrow

streets, I realized two things. One: Google maps was completely useless to me and all I could do was head downhill in the direction of the ocean. Two: Genova is about as close as you can get to a real-life Gotham city. The Italian sun is not an issue in Genova because the buildings are so tall and the streets are so narrow that sunlight doesn’t reach the pedestrians.

The scenic Old Port is the touristic center of the city. The aquarium, an old sailing ship, and the Museo del Mar are its main attractions. Still, Genova is not a popular tourist destination for international visitors. This became clear to me when I visited the Museo del Mar and most of the signs did not have English translations. It’s a maritime museum that focuses on Genova’s history as an important port city as well as the voyages of Christopher Columbus, which is Genova’s main claim to fame.

Hero-worship of Christopher Columbus is prevalent throughout Europe. The massive monument to Columbus in the Seville cathedral is testament to that, along with other Columbus monuments I noticed throughout Spain. This was a surprise to me, considering that in the Americas Columbus is now considered a tyrant, a perpetrator of slavery and indirectly responsible for genocide of indigenous people. There is a lot of historical evidence of Columbus committing acts of brutality while governing in the ‘New World.’ Think Colonel Kurtz from The Heart of Darkness, with heads on pikes and execution by hangings.

Later in the day, I also visited the house of Christopher Columbus. It was a completely worthless tourist trap because the original house was destroyed in the 1680’s and there isn’t much to look at. Nothing in the informational signs in either the Museo del Mar or the Columbus house refer to the controversial nature of his fame.

There are lots of more worthwile sites to see in Genova. The Doge’s Palace, located next to the stunning Piazza di Ferrari, had exhibits on Van Gogh and the Surrealist artist Man Ray. Nearby is the cathedral of San Lorenzo, which had was restored after the ceiling was destroyed by a British bomb during WW2. The bomb landed in the center of the cathedral but did not explode, which was of course considered to be a holy miracle, although unexploded bombs were fairly common. (Old Port)

On my second day in Genova, I joined a cultural walking tour of the city and learned more about the unique culture of Genova. It is a very hilly city, which means lots of scenic views. It also means public elevators, and some people having to enter their homes through their roofs.

Another aspect unique to Genova is that it is a truly integrated melting-pot of social classes. Residential buildings in Genova contain rent prices that range from cheap student housing to luxurious penthouses with frescoed ceilings. The reason for this is because servant’s quarters, which had lower ceilings and fewer windows, were often located beneath the homes of wealthy families. The result is that the city’s main street for prostitution is located within sight of the grand palazzo that houses the City Hall.

Genova is the location in which I had some of the best Italian food during my travels. It is the homeland of pesto and focaccia. Every street is lined with little shops where you can buy focaccia with different flavors to-go. On my first evening in town, I had a room-temp focaccia with pesto and cheese. It was somehow one of the most mind-blowingly delicious meals I’d had in a long time. I also tried Genovese farinata, which is a savory and salty flatbread made from chickpea flour.

Although most international visitors only end up in Genova en-route to another location or to visit the Cinque Terre, Genova itself is a fascinating and unique city to visit. It’s also a good place to beat the tourist crowds and the heat.

(Piazza di Ferrari)